shoaling wave
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Wave shoaling — In fluid dynamics, wave shoaling is the phenomenon that surface waves on a water layer of decreasing depth change their wave height (which is about twice the amplitude). It is caused by the fact that the group velocity, which is also the wave… … Wikipedia
Wave-cut platform — Wave cut platform. In this case, alternating hard and soft layers have been folded up vertically and eroded by the tides, resulting in a regular ripple pattern at the surface. A wave cut platform, or shore platform is the narrow flat area often… … Wikipedia
shoaling — /ˈʃoʊlɪŋ/ (say shohling) noun a decrease in the speed and length of a wave when the wave enters shallow water, with corresponding increase in wave height and wave steepness …
wave shoaling — noun The effect on a wave, in a body of water, of increasing wave height with decreasing water depth. Particularly noticeable at the sea shore … Wiktionary
Wind wave — Ocean wave redirects here. For the film, see Ocean Waves (film). North Pacific storm waves as seen from the NOAA M/V Noble Star, Winter 1989 … Wikipedia
Rogue wave — This article is about the deep ocean rogue waves which occur far out at sea. For tsunami and tidal wave phenomena, see those respective articles. For other uses, see Rogue wave (disambiguation). The Draupner wave, a single giant wave measured on… … Wikipedia
Cnoidal wave — US Army bombers flying over near periodic swell in shallow water, close to the Panama coast (1933). The sharp crests and very flat troughs are characteristic for cnoidal waves. In fluid dynamics, a cnoidal wave is a nonlinear and exact periodic… … Wikipedia
Wind wave model — NOAA Wavewatch III 120 hour Forecast for the North Atlantic In fluid dynamics, wind wave modeling describes the effort to depict the sea state and predict the evolution of the energy of wind waves using numerical techniques. These simulations… … Wikipedia
Airy wave theory — In fluid dynamics, Airy wave theory (often referred to as linear wave theory) gives a linearised description of the propagation of gravity waves on the surface of a homogeneous fluid layer. The theory assumes that the fluid layer has a uniform… … Wikipedia
Ocean surface wave — Ocean surface waves are surface waves that occur on the free surface of the ocean. They usually result from wind, and are also referred to as wind waves. Some waves can travel thousands of miles before reaching land. They range in size from small … Wikipedia
